Serbian Manners and Customs
Serbia is a land of warmhearted people, where hospitality is the dearest obligation of every host, where courtesy dictates that the guest should be offered more than he can eat or drink and where everything will be done to make the guest feel at home. It is particularly so in the rural areas where the code of hospitality is treated with seriousness. Sometimes the hospitality of the overenthusiastic hosts may threaten to overwhelm, but, since it is done with best intentions, you will have to adapt and enjoy it.
Greeting people
When people meet for the first time they say their first name, shake hands (try to do it sturdily with men) and say "Drago mi je" (Nice to meet you). If you meet the people you're already acquainted with, you will just shake hands and ask "Kako ste?" (more formal) or "Kako si?" (informal, with friends) (both mean "How are you?"). The usual "Hello/Hi" is "Zdravo" or "Chao" among younger people and "Dobro jutro" in the morning, "Dobar dan" during the day and "Dobro vece" in the evening for everyone else. If you are seated, rise when you meet people, especially women and elder men. When meeting after a longer time or upon some celebration such as a birthday, it is customary to kiss three times on alternating cheeks while shaking hands, or, more familiarly, embrace. The same procedure comes also at saying goodbye ("Dovidjenja"). Women, especially younger, will kiss friends lightly on the cheek just once instead of a handshake. Eye contact is valued and you may expect more physical contact with the people you meet with, but that just means that they consider you a friend.
Since Serbs are, in general, open, friendly and direct, personal questions showing interest in stranger's life, politics, like and dislikes are often basis of conversations so don't be offended if you're most openly asked about an unusual theme.
When asking for something politely, use the phrease "Molim vas" (please). Always say "Hvala" for "Thank you".
House visits
Upon arriving at someone's home you will be treated to a coffee (almost always black coffee, called "Turska kafa" or "Crna kafa"), juice and rakija, usually a home made one in which every master of the house takes great pride (it's a topic they'll love to talk about). Don't miss trying the delicious sweet preserves "slatko" (literary "sweet") of which you should take just a spoon or two accompanied by a glass of water. Upon your first entry in a household it is customary to bring a symbolic present, a bottle of an alcoholic drink, an assortment of chocolates, flowers or similar.
In saying cheers, "Živeli", touch glasses and pay attention that you look to the eyes of all the people you toast with while touching glasses. Note that your glass will be replenished as soon as you've emptied it, so if you don't want to continue drinking leave some at the bottom. If offered to join a lunch you won't talk your way out of it easily (and why would you?), and once you do it, you might easily be offered a supper and breakfast as well.
During meals there are not many rules to obey. Try to follow the pace of your host but don't hesitate even one moment to take more if you like the food. The courses (starters, soup, main dish, dessert) are accompanied by saying "Prijatno" (Bon Appetite) and answering "Hvala, takodje" (Thank you, same to you).
Visiting for Slava
The greatest honor for every guest is to be invited to a "slava", a celebration of a family's saint day. Don't forget to bring a symbolic gift, such as a bottle of wine. The most conventional greeting is "Srecna slava", followed by kissing three times on alternating cheeks while shaking hands. Upon entering the house, you will be offered "žito", a ceremonial sweet made of wheat, honey and nuts; you are required to make a sign of cross (if you're a Christian), take one spoon and leave it in a glass of water. All that you have to do afterwards is to enjoy the hospitality and eagerly answer all the toasts.
Paying Bills when Going Out
By Serbian custom, upon drinking in a cafe or dinning out, the bill for everything will be paid by the host. Sharing the payment around the table, except when there is no money around, is not considered convivial. You can ask if you may add some money but try not to be too precise; it is much better that you order a round after you enjoyed several paid by your hosts. If someone shows clear intention of buying you a drink don't try paying anything cause it might be considered offensive.
Smoking
An almost complete lack of non-smoking zones in a country where a majority of population smokes could be a distinct inconvenience for non-smokers. Feel free to ask for a cigarette even if you don't know the people you're asking. It is not considered impolite.
Foreign Languages
Language skills of locals depend on education and age: younger people even in smaller places tend to have good to fair knowledge of English. Amongst the middle age and elderly people only those with better education will know the language. Other languages that are often spoken are German, French, Russian and Italian. Knowledge of any slavic language will prove useful since many of the common words are the same.
Visiting Churches and Monasteries
Upon visiting churches and monasteries you are required to act politely, not to laugh or raise your voice too loud. The dress code doesn't allow shorts or mini-skirts, which could be a problem in summertime. When entering, take your hat off. If your visit coincides with a service, you can enter, but stand in one place and don't walk around. On all occasions women are not allowed in the altar space behind the iconostasis. Ask for permission if you want to take pictures with a flash, especially in the church.